Yep, I survived my time in Naples. After all those online/offline advice forums and fears from family and friends, I’m pleased to report I’m still alive following my five days in Italy’s (mafia run) biggest city. However, after two weeks of hostel sleeping and possibly pizza overdose, the inevitable has happen – I’m ill. I think I’m suffering from a mild dose of food poisoning (or maybe lack of vitamins) and tiredness, but all is well – you can’t eat that much pizza and still expect to be perfectly on form! So, I’ve made the decision to take a couple of days off, I’m just hoping my body doesn’t get withdrawal symptoms!
So, what have I been up to since my last diary update? On Sunday, I went to Sorrento for the day. For only 6.50 return to get to one of the key towns of the Amalfi Coast, it was a bargain and as it was such a nice day, it seemed like the ideal opportunity. On the train, I sat next to two Italian men who spoke painfully slow Italian with me, but then again it can’t have been that painful for them as they both invited me out that evening, and I had one of them latched onto me for the entire day in Sorrento. Not my decision believe me. Although, he did pay for everything – including my new favourite fried snack, aubergine and mozzarella coated in breadcrumbs, a pizza sandwich, gelato and a coffee with zeppala (Neapolitan speciality cake). And, it meant I spoke Italian all day long – I’ll be fluent in no time!
View from Sorrento
That evening, I experienced my first Italian date. This was not the intended state of affairs believe me, I thought I’d been invited out with a group of his friends but no, when it was just him and his car awaiting me, I knew I’d been conned. I did have my reservations but I thought, while in Italy… it’s part of the adventure, right?! Anyway, we ended up going to a trattoria by the port and had alghae and mozzarella in carozza to start. Algae is essentially a seaweed savoury profiterole, which was actually pretty enjoyable, and the mozzarella in carozza was so yummy – delicious buffalo mozzarella, again deep fried in breadcrumbs. We had insalata di mare and zuppa di cozze for our mains as both of these dishes are specialities in Naples. He took me to the Castello d’Uovo for a walk afterwards which offered beautiful views of the Amalfi Coast and Naples, and the castle, in the shape of an egg was pretty cool to check out too. So, in all, my Friday was pretty damn cheap and I got to immensely improve my Italian and eat great food! Result, if you ask me!
Algae and mozarella in carozza
I also did some cooking, deciding to make my favourite Neapolitan dish so far – malanzane parmiagana – you can read the recipe here if you like. I also visited Naples’ cathedral, which in comparison to Salisbury Cathedral and others I’ve seen, wasn’t overly impressive. I explored the backstreets of Naples and couldn’t get over how cheap everything is – a massive pizza for a euro, 5 fried arracine/fritti for 1 euro and the majority of the cakes for less. So, given it was only a euro I decided to try out the deep fried pizza. Why you need to add any more calories to something already so bad for you, I don’t know, but it was actually surprisingly good! I also took the funicular up to the highest part of Naples to enjoy the panoramic view. And, although not having the same affects as Monreale (in Palermo), it was pretty spectacular.
Deep fried pizza
View of Naples (and Vesuvius!)
Most importantly, considering Naples is meant to be the home of it, let’s talk pizza. Do I think it’s worthy of that title? In short, I’m not sure – I’m finding the pizza tastes so different everywhere I go that I don’t know what ‘qualifies’ as being a pizza. The Roman pizza was more like a sandwich, the Sicilian was like focaccia but Naples offers a lighter, fluffier and less sandwich based ‘meal’. So perhaps yes, it is worthy of its title as if I were to choose which one I’d like a whole dinner sized portion of, I’d definitely choose Neapolitan. Considering how expensive wood fired ovens are at home (averaging £10K), I was surprised to see near enough every pizzeria and takeaway in Naples had one, either they’re a lot cheaper in Naples (or they make their own), or it’s seen as an essential to create that perfect Neapolitan pizza. Whatever the reason, I definitely do prefer the wood fired oven effect, and I do think it’s worth the investment back at home.
So, my pizza tour of Naples has come to an end and my next stop is Bari, in Puglia. I’m even more excited about this stop as my friend Lucy is joining me, and I’m coming to the quick realisation that I’m not so into solo travelling. It’s not just the loneliness, it’s having no one to share amazing experiences, tastes and views with. Ah well, bring on Bari!
