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I’d initially been taken to Maze for my 21st birthday and ironically, was taken this time, for Andrew’s. However, this time was an evening sitting which offers an entirely different ambiance to a more average lunch-time sitting. The lights were dimmed, the candles lit and despite there being no music, there was a lovely soft buzz throughout the restaurant.
We sat at the bar and ordered a French 75 (Gin and champagne) for Andrew, and a lychee and raspberry cocktail for me. I definitely won on the drink choosing stakes as Andrew wasn’t overly happy with his selection. We couldn’t really understand why you’d put gin in champagne as it leaves it tasting a little flat. Anyway, at the scheduled booking time of 8.15pm, we were summoned to our table.
Maze is known for its lunch-time grazing menu or evening tasting menu, complete with matched wines. Tonight’s tasting menu was a 7 course affair which neither of thought we could manage so we opted for four courses each with me selecting the wines. The food menu was standard enough but we were brought an IPAD to order the wine from. I didn’t and still don’t know what to make of that, I fully believe technology is the future and when used appropriately, it’s pretty impressive but it just didn’t suit Maze.
Our customised menu for the evening was:
FIRST COURSE:
Maze sushi platter
(Mixed selection from the sushi bar)
Scottish hand – dived scallops, crushed butternut squash, lime leaf veloute
(with Marsanne wine)
SECOND COURSE:
Arctic king crab, braised octopus, brown crab puree, cranberry sauce
Dumpling of lobster, tiger prawns and salmon, aromatic lemongrass broth
(with Sauvignon Blanc from Iona, South Africa)
THIRD COURSE:
Brill, brown shrimps, Meyer lemon, salsify, horseradish sauce
Crispy chicken thigh, crayfish, charred baby gem, turnip, lettuce mayonnaise
(We went back to the Marsanne as it was so good!)
FOURTH COURSE:
Braised beef feather blade, pomme purée, shimiji mushrooms, togarashi spice
Duck breast, steamed bun, sweet corn, fried onions and miso
Andrew and I wrote notes for all the courses but if I went through them all individually, we’d all be here a long time so I’ll talk about the highlights. For me, initially it was the Marsanne wine. If you’re a fan of Chablis or White Burgundy and haven’t tried the marsanne grape, I recommend you give it a try next time you’re choosing wine at the supermarket or out for dinner. It’s more fuller bodied than an average white wine, and has varying depths of flavour, finishing off with a satisfying after taste which only makes you want to take another sip. My first course – the sushi was possibly one of the best sushi plates I’ve had. Admittedly I’m not a connoisseur, and I’ve never been to any upmarket sushi joint but this was on a different level to anything I’ve had before. The selection of sashami fish was subtle, soft and when topped with the pickled ginger and wasabi, was delicious. I could have easily managed another plate.
I have the view that food tastes different without sight and as I’d chosen Andrew’s courses for him, I thought it’d be the perfect occasion to put my theory to the test. On the arrival of the third course, the chicken thigh – I scooped up a Greg Wallace spoonful (a bit of everything I could find on the plate) and popped it in his mouth. Verdict? He thought it was pork! It’s amazing what the mind can conjure although I can see why he thought it was pork, as the chicken, despite being succulent and moist, was a little firmer than a typical chicken breast. I was given a mouthful with some crayfish, and I was nicely surprised by how perfect a combination it was.
My favourite course was the brill and brown shrimps. It looked the prettiest and was a decent sized portion! I’d never had brill before but please excuse the pun, but it was brilliant! Quite a firm, meaty fish with a subtle almost buttery flavour. The shrimps, although slightly over-cooked so a little rubbery were a great accompaniment too. This may not have been the epitome of class in such a fine dining establishment, but I ended up scooping a third of it into Andrew’s mouth as I couldn’t manage it all. Not something you’d usually expect from such an eatery. Usually you’re lucky to not leave hungry from Michelin starred restaurants.
Our final courses were possibly the most disappointing. We agreed that the featherblade beef tasted very similar to what you’d get on a plane, maybe business class but it just didn’t taste of much, other than salt. Andrew’s duck was marginally better, I’m just not a fan of duck as I personally find it fatty and generally quite tough.
But, our final course disappointment was made up for with the complimentary petit fours which were divine – I’d like to give Maze’s pastry chef a pat on the back for those. To top the night off, our waiter came out with a ‘Happy Birthday’ plate with a mini cake and candle for Andrew. Good work Maze, you impressed there!
Recommendation (3.5 / 5)
I’d recommend Maze as a place to go for dinner, rather than lunch. The service is more attentive (maybe because they know how much more money you’ll be spending?!) and it exudes a better atmosphere. If you’re not feeling lazy and know a thing or two about wine, choose your own courses of the a la carte as it provides more variety and you really get what you want.
Extra Information:
Address: 10-13 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP
Phone: 020 7495 2211
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/maze/
NTK: Be prepared for the modern day introduction of the IPAD to order your drinks with!